Fancy Yarns Classification ? Briefly Discuss about Different Type of Fancy Yarns ?

Fancy Yarns :


Marl yarn

The simplest of fancy yarns are marl yarns and yarns made by twisting two different colored yarns together in a double process. It has a different structure from normal double yarn. The yarn structure shown in Figure 1 clearly shows the color variation of the two yarns, showing the dominant effect of the marl yarn, as well as the flat structure of the simple folded yarn. These yarns are used to create discreet pinstripes in men's suiting or to create a finely and irregularly patterned woven fabric with relatively simple fabric construction. They can also be used to provide a Lurex or other metallic yarn with a strong backing, while at the same time creating a more subtle effect.


Spiral or corkscrew yarn

A spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied yarn that exhibits a characteristic smooth spiral of one yarn element around another and is similar in structure to a marl yarn. Figure 1 shows the basic structure, which is straightforward except for the different lengths of the two yarns used.


Gimp yarn

A gimp yarn is a composite yarn consisting of a twisted core wrapped around an impact yarn to create a wavy projection on the surface of the yarn. This structure is shown in Figure 1. Due to the requirement of the binder yarn to give stability to the structure, the yarn must be made in two stages. Two yarns of widely varying numbers are pleated together, thickened around, and then reverse bound. The reverse binding process eliminates the twist that creates wavy profiles because it makes the effect yarn longer than the actual length of the finished yarn. The texture properties of a gimp are obviously better than those of a spiral yarn. The finer of the two gimps shows that the effect is less regular and perhaps less defined.


Diamond thread

A diamond yarn is produced by folding a coarse single yarn or twisting it with a finer yarn or filament of opposite color using an S-twist. It is wired with a similar fine yarn using jade twist. Multiple 'cabled' yarns can be created by expanding and modifying this technique to create a wide range of effects. A real diamond yarn shows some shrinkage effect from thinner to thicker yarns, but this is not shown in Figure 1 for the sake of clarity. Diamond yarn is very useful for designers to create subtle effects of color and texture. Especially in relatively simple fabric structures.


Boucle yarn

This type of yarn is characterized by tight loops projecting from the yarn body at fairly regular intervals, as shown in Figure 1. Some of these yarns are made by air-jet texturing but most are of three-ply construction. The three components of the yarn are the core, the effect and the tie, or binder yarn. Effect yarn is wrapped in loops around a core or base yarn and then a third ply or binder is wrapped over the effect ply to hold the loops in place. Individual plies may be filaments or spun yarns. These material yarn properties determine the final design effect.

Fancy Yarns : Marl yarn The simplest of fancy yarns are marl yarns and yarns made by twisting two different colored yarns together in a double process. It has a different structure from normal double yarn. The yarn structure shown in Figure 1 clearly shows the color variation of the two yarns, showing the dominant effect of the marl yarn, as well as the flat structure of the simple folded yarn. These yarns are used to create discreet pinstripes in men's suiting or to create a finely and irregularly patterned woven fabric with relatively simple fabric construction. They can also be used to provide a Lurex or other metallic yarn with a strong backing, while at the same time creating a more subtle effect. Spiral or corkscrew yarn A spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied yarn that exhibits a characteristic smooth spiral of one yarn element around another and is similar in structure to a marl yarn. Figure 1 shows the basic structure, which is straightforward except for the different lengths of the two yarns used. Gimp yarn A gimp yarn is a composite yarn consisting of a twisted core wrapped around an impact yarn to create a wavy projection on the surface of the yarn. This structure is shown in Figure 1. Due to the requirement of the binder yarn to give stability to the structure, the yarn must be made in two stages. Two yarns of widely varying numbers are pleated together, thickened around, and then reverse bound. The reverse binding process eliminates the twist that creates wavy profiles because it makes the effect yarn longer than the actual length of the finished yarn. The texture properties of a gimp are obviously better than those of a spiral yarn. The finer of the two gimps shows that the effect is less regular and perhaps less defined. Diamond thread A diamond yarn is produced by folding a coarse single yarn or twisting it with a finer yarn or filament of opposite color using an S-twist. It is wired with a similar fine yarn using jade twist. Multiple 'cabled' yarns can be created by expanding and modifying this technique to create a wide range of effects. A real diamond yarn shows some shrinkage effect from thinner to thicker yarns, but this is not shown in Figure 1 for the sake of clarity. Diamond yarn is very useful for designers to create subtle effects of color and texture. Especially in relatively simple fabric structures. Boucle yarn This type of yarn is characterized by tight loops projecting from the yarn body at fairly regular intervals, as shown in Figure 1. Some of these yarns are made by air-jet texturing but most are of three-ply construction. The three components of the yarn are the core, the effect and the tie, or binder yarn. Effect yarn is wrapped in loops around a core or base yarn and then a third ply or binder is wrapped over the effect ply to hold the loops in place. Individual plies may be filaments or spun yarns. These material yarn properties determine the final design effect. Fig 1 : Different Type of Fancy Yarns Loop yarn A loop yarn has a core around which an impact yarn is wrapped and is overfed to form a nearly circular loopy projection on its surface. Figure 2 shows the structure of a loop yarn, in this case simplified somewhat by showing the core as two straight bars. In fact, the core is always two yarns twisted together, which traps the impact yarn. As a general rule, four threads are involved in construction. Two of these form the main or ground yarn. Effect yarn(s) are formed with an overfeed of about 200% or more. It is important for these to be of the right type and of good quality. Even, low-twist, elastic and flexible yarns are required. Impact yarn is not completely bound by the ground thread and therefore requires a binder. The size of the loops is determined by the level of overfeed, the location of the grooves in the drafting rollers, the spinning tension or the level of twist of the impact yarn. Loop yarn can also be made with slivers in place of yarn for effect. Snarl yarn Snarl yarn has a similar twisted core-to-loop structure. Again for simplicity, the core is shown as two parallel bars in Figure 2. A snarl yarn exhibits 'snarls' or 'twists' projecting from the core. It is produced by a method similar to loop yarn, but uses a vibrant, high-twist yarn as the impact yarn and a slightly higher excess feed. The required size and frequency of snarls can be obtained by careful control of additional feed and details of spinning tension and the level of twist of the impact yarn. Fig 2 : Loop yarn and Snarl yarn Nap/Knop yarn A knapsack yarn has distinct bundles of one or more component threads, arranged along its length at regular or irregular intervals (Figure 3). It is usually produced using a machine with two pairs of rollers, each of which can be operated independently. This allows the base threads to be dispensed intermittently, while the knapping threads that create the effect are dispensed continuously. The knapping thread joins the foundation thread below the knapping bar. Gather the knopping thread into a bunch or knop inserting the twist. The vertical movement of the knapping threads forms a bunch or knop. The vertical movement of the nopping bar determines whether the nap is short and compact or spread out along the length of the yarn. Slab yarn It is a yarn in which the slobs are deliberately made to create the desired effect of isolation. Slobs are thick areas of yarn that can change very slowly, with only a slight thickening at the thickest point of the yarn. Alternatively, a slab may be three or four times the thickness of the base yarn, and the thickness may increase in short lengths of yarn. The yarn images in Figure 3 should give a clear impression of yarn structure. Fascinating yarn It is a staple-fiber yarn consisting of a core of parallel fibers bound together by wrapper fibers. The yarn produced by air-jet spinning method is structured in this way. Yarns produced by the hollow spindle method are often described as warped, as the binder is applied to an essentially untwisted core of parallel fibers. The impressed yarn shown in Figure 3 is produced using the hollow spindle process. It is possible to see the fibers coming out of the dark binding thread contrasting with one of the two slivers used as feedstock in yarn production. Fig 3 : Knop, slub and fasciated yarns Tape yarn Tape yarn can be made using a variety of processes including braiding, warp knitting and weft knitting (Figure 4). In recent years, these materials have become more popular, especially in fashion knitwear. It is also possible to use narrow woven ribbons, narrow tapes of nonwoven material or slit films. Chainet yarn The chainet yarn shown in Figure 4 is produced in a small circular weft knitting process, often using a filament yarn and a ring of 6 to 20 needles. The process has been used on a small scale for many years and is now widely used in fashion knitwear. Chenille yarn True chenille yarn is produced from a woven leno fabric structure that is torn into narrow, warp-wise strips to serve as yarn. These are pile yarns, and the length of the pile may be uniform throughout the length of the yarn or may vary in length to produce a yarn of irregular dimensions. Chenille yarn is used in upholstery and clothing. Chenille yarn, as shown in Figure 4, has a soft, fuzzy pile that is bonded to a core. This yarn can be spun, but the equipment required is very specialized. For this reason, these yarns are usually woven on looms. The impact yarn is bound by a weft thread, which forms the warp. The weft thread is spaced twice the required length of the pile. Then the warp between each weft thread is cut in half. FIg 4 : Tape yarn, chainette yarn and chenille yarn Ribbon yarn These yarns are not produced by spinning and consist of finely woven tubes, pressed flat to resemble ribbon or tape. The ribbon is usually soft, shiny and silky. Composite yarn Also known as compound yarns, they contain at least two yarns. One composite yarn forms the core, and the other strand forms the sheath material. One thread is a staple fiber yarn and the other is a filament yarn. Composite yarns are even available in the same count range as diameter, plain and twisted and filament yarns. Covered yarn Covered yarns have a core that is completely covered with fibers or other yarns. Figure 5 shows different types of coated yarns. The core can be an elastomeric yarn, such as rubber or spandex, or other yarns, such as polyester or nylon. Coated yarns may have a single or double coating. The second coating is usually bent in the opposite direction to the first. A single yarn is wrapped around single covered yarns They are lighter, more resilient and more economical than double-coated yarns and can be used for satin, batiste, broadcloth and suiting as well as lightweight foundation garments. Most common elastic yarns are double coated to provide balance and better coverage. Fabrics made from this yarn are heavy. Metallic yarn They have been used for thousands of years. Metallic yarns can be made of monofilament fibers or ply yarns. Two processes are commonly used to make metallic yarns. The laminating process seals a layer of aluminum between two layers of acetate or polyester film, which is then cut into strips for yarn, as shown in Figure 5. The film can be transparent, so the aluminum foil shows, or the film and/or the adhesive may be coloured before the laminating process. The metallising process vaporises the aluminium at high pressure and deposits it on the polyester film. Fig 5 : Covered yarn and metallic yarn
Fig 1 : Different Type of Fancy Yarns 


Loop yarn

A loop yarn has a core around which an impact yarn is wrapped and is overfed to form a nearly circular loopy projection on its surface. Figure 2 shows the structure of a loop yarn, in this case simplified somewhat by showing the core as two straight bars. In fact, the core is always two yarns twisted together, which traps the impact yarn. As a general rule, four threads are involved in construction. Two of these form the main or ground yarn. Effect yarn(s) are formed with an overfeed of about 200% or more. It is important for these to be of the right type and of good quality. Even, low-twist, elastic and flexible yarns are required. Impact yarn is not completely bound by the ground thread and therefore requires a binder. The size of the loops is determined by the level of overfeed, the location of the grooves in the drafting rollers, the spinning tension or the level of twist of the impact yarn. Loop yarn can also be made with slivers in place of yarn for effect.


Snarl yarn

Snarl yarn has a similar twisted core-to-loop structure. Again for simplicity, the core is shown as two parallel bars in Figure 2. A snarl yarn exhibits 'snarls' or 'twists' projecting from the core. It is produced by a method similar to loop yarn, but uses a vibrant, high-twist yarn as the impact yarn and a slightly higher excess feed. The required size and frequency of snarls can be obtained by careful control of additional feed and details of spinning tension and the level of twist of the impact yarn.

Fancy Yarns : Marl yarn The simplest of fancy yarns are marl yarns and yarns made by twisting two different colored yarns together in a double process. It has a different structure from normal double yarn. The yarn structure shown in Figure 1 clearly shows the color variation of the two yarns, showing the dominant effect of the marl yarn, as well as the flat structure of the simple folded yarn. These yarns are used to create discreet pinstripes in men's suiting or to create a finely and irregularly patterned woven fabric with relatively simple fabric construction. They can also be used to provide a Lurex or other metallic yarn with a strong backing, while at the same time creating a more subtle effect. Spiral or corkscrew yarn A spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied yarn that exhibits a characteristic smooth spiral of one yarn element around another and is similar in structure to a marl yarn. Figure 1 shows the basic structure, which is straightforward except for the different lengths of the two yarns used. Gimp yarn A gimp yarn is a composite yarn consisting of a twisted core wrapped around an impact yarn to create a wavy projection on the surface of the yarn. This structure is shown in Figure 1. Due to the requirement of the binder yarn to give stability to the structure, the yarn must be made in two stages. Two yarns of widely varying numbers are pleated together, thickened around, and then reverse bound. The reverse binding process eliminates the twist that creates wavy profiles because it makes the effect yarn longer than the actual length of the finished yarn. The texture properties of a gimp are obviously better than those of a spiral yarn. The finer of the two gimps shows that the effect is less regular and perhaps less defined. Diamond thread A diamond yarn is produced by folding a coarse single yarn or twisting it with a finer yarn or filament of opposite color using an S-twist. It is wired with a similar fine yarn using jade twist. Multiple 'cabled' yarns can be created by expanding and modifying this technique to create a wide range of effects. A real diamond yarn shows some shrinkage effect from thinner to thicker yarns, but this is not shown in Figure 1 for the sake of clarity. Diamond yarn is very useful for designers to create subtle effects of color and texture. Especially in relatively simple fabric structures. Boucle yarn This type of yarn is characterized by tight loops projecting from the yarn body at fairly regular intervals, as shown in Figure 1. Some of these yarns are made by air-jet texturing but most are of three-ply construction. The three components of the yarn are the core, the effect and the tie, or binder yarn. Effect yarn is wrapped in loops around a core or base yarn and then a third ply or binder is wrapped over the effect ply to hold the loops in place. Individual plies may be filaments or spun yarns. These material yarn properties determine the final design effect. Fig 1 : Different Type of Fancy Yarns Loop yarn A loop yarn has a core around which an impact yarn is wrapped and is overfed to form a nearly circular loopy projection on its surface. Figure 2 shows the structure of a loop yarn, in this case simplified somewhat by showing the core as two straight bars. In fact, the core is always two yarns twisted together, which traps the impact yarn. As a general rule, four threads are involved in construction. Two of these form the main or ground yarn. Effect yarn(s) are formed with an overfeed of about 200% or more. It is important for these to be of the right type and of good quality. Even, low-twist, elastic and flexible yarns are required. Impact yarn is not completely bound by the ground thread and therefore requires a binder. The size of the loops is determined by the level of overfeed, the location of the grooves in the drafting rollers, the spinning tension or the level of twist of the impact yarn. Loop yarn can also be made with slivers in place of yarn for effect. Snarl yarn Snarl yarn has a similar twisted core-to-loop structure. Again for simplicity, the core is shown as two parallel bars in Figure 2. A snarl yarn exhibits 'snarls' or 'twists' projecting from the core. It is produced by a method similar to loop yarn, but uses a vibrant, high-twist yarn as the impact yarn and a slightly higher excess feed. The required size and frequency of snarls can be obtained by careful control of additional feed and details of spinning tension and the level of twist of the impact yarn. Fig 2 : Loop yarn and Snarl yarn Nap/Knop yarn A knapsack yarn has distinct bundles of one or more component threads, arranged along its length at regular or irregular intervals (Figure 3). It is usually produced using a machine with two pairs of rollers, each of which can be operated independently. This allows the base threads to be dispensed intermittently, while the knapping threads that create the effect are dispensed continuously. The knapping thread joins the foundation thread below the knapping bar. Gather the knopping thread into a bunch or knop inserting the twist. The vertical movement of the knapping threads forms a bunch or knop. The vertical movement of the nopping bar determines whether the nap is short and compact or spread out along the length of the yarn. Slab yarn It is a yarn in which the slobs are deliberately made to create the desired effect of isolation. Slobs are thick areas of yarn that can change very slowly, with only a slight thickening at the thickest point of the yarn. Alternatively, a slab may be three or four times the thickness of the base yarn, and the thickness may increase in short lengths of yarn. The yarn images in Figure 3 should give a clear impression of yarn structure. Fascinating yarn It is a staple-fiber yarn consisting of a core of parallel fibers bound together by wrapper fibers. The yarn produced by air-jet spinning method is structured in this way. Yarns produced by the hollow spindle method are often described as warped, as the binder is applied to an essentially untwisted core of parallel fibers. The impressed yarn shown in Figure 3 is produced using the hollow spindle process. It is possible to see the fibers coming out of the dark binding thread contrasting with one of the two slivers used as feedstock in yarn production. Fig 3 : Knop, slub and fasciated yarns Tape yarn Tape yarn can be made using a variety of processes including braiding, warp knitting and weft knitting (Figure 4). In recent years, these materials have become more popular, especially in fashion knitwear. It is also possible to use narrow woven ribbons, narrow tapes of nonwoven material or slit films. Chainet yarn The chainet yarn shown in Figure 4 is produced in a small circular weft knitting process, often using a filament yarn and a ring of 6 to 20 needles. The process has been used on a small scale for many years and is now widely used in fashion knitwear. Chenille yarn True chenille yarn is produced from a woven leno fabric structure that is torn into narrow, warp-wise strips to serve as yarn. These are pile yarns, and the length of the pile may be uniform throughout the length of the yarn or may vary in length to produce a yarn of irregular dimensions. Chenille yarn is used in upholstery and clothing. Chenille yarn, as shown in Figure 4, has a soft, fuzzy pile that is bonded to a core. This yarn can be spun, but the equipment required is very specialized. For this reason, these yarns are usually woven on looms. The impact yarn is bound by a weft thread, which forms the warp. The weft thread is spaced twice the required length of the pile. Then the warp between each weft thread is cut in half. FIg 4 : Tape yarn, chainette yarn and chenille yarn Ribbon yarn These yarns are not produced by spinning and consist of finely woven tubes, pressed flat to resemble ribbon or tape. The ribbon is usually soft, shiny and silky. Composite yarn Also known as compound yarns, they contain at least two yarns. One composite yarn forms the core, and the other strand forms the sheath material. One thread is a staple fiber yarn and the other is a filament yarn. Composite yarns are even available in the same count range as diameter, plain and twisted and filament yarns. Covered yarn Covered yarns have a core that is completely covered with fibers or other yarns. Figure 5 shows different types of coated yarns. The core can be an elastomeric yarn, such as rubber or spandex, or other yarns, such as polyester or nylon. Coated yarns may have a single or double coating. The second coating is usually bent in the opposite direction to the first. A single yarn is wrapped around single covered yarns They are lighter, more resilient and more economical than double-coated yarns and can be used for satin, batiste, broadcloth and suiting as well as lightweight foundation garments. Most common elastic yarns are double coated to provide balance and better coverage. Fabrics made from this yarn are heavy. Metallic yarn They have been used for thousands of years. Metallic yarns can be made of monofilament fibers or ply yarns. Two processes are commonly used to make metallic yarns. The laminating process seals a layer of aluminum between two layers of acetate or polyester film, which is then cut into strips for yarn, as shown in Figure 5. The film can be transparent, so the aluminum foil shows, or the film and/or the adhesive may be coloured before the laminating process. The metallising process vaporises the aluminium at high pressure and deposits it on the polyester film. Fig 5 : Covered yarn and metallic yarn
Fig 2 : Loop yarn and Snarl yarn


Nap/Knop yarn

A knapsack yarn has distinct bundles of one or more component threads, arranged along its length at regular or irregular intervals (Figure 3). It is usually produced using a machine with two pairs of rollers, each of which can be operated independently. This allows the base threads to be dispensed intermittently, while the knapping threads that create the effect are dispensed continuously. The knapping thread joins the foundation thread below the knapping bar. Gather the knopping thread into a bunch or knop inserting the twist. The vertical movement of the knapping threads forms a bunch or knop. The vertical movement of the nopping bar determines whether the nap is short and compact or spread out along the length of the yarn.

Slab yarn

It is a yarn in which the slobs are deliberately made to create the desired effect of isolation. Slobs are thick areas of yarn that can change very slowly, with only a slight thickening at the thickest point of the yarn. Alternatively, a slab may be three or four times the thickness of the base yarn, and the thickness may increase in short lengths of yarn. The yarn images in Figure 3 should give a clear impression of yarn structure.

Fascinating yarn

It is a staple-fiber yarn consisting of a core of parallel fibers bound together by wrapper fibers. The yarn produced by air-jet spinning method is structured in this way. Yarns produced by the hollow spindle method are often described as warped, as the binder is applied to an essentially untwisted core of parallel fibers. The impressed yarn shown in Figure 3 is produced using the hollow spindle process. It is possible to see the fibers coming out of the dark binding thread contrasting with one of the two slivers used as feedstock in yarn production.
Fancy Yarns : Marl yarn The simplest of fancy yarns are marl yarns and yarns made by twisting two different colored yarns together in a double process. It has a different structure from normal double yarn. The yarn structure shown in Figure 1 clearly shows the color variation of the two yarns, showing the dominant effect of the marl yarn, as well as the flat structure of the simple folded yarn. These yarns are used to create discreet pinstripes in men's suiting or to create a finely and irregularly patterned woven fabric with relatively simple fabric construction. They can also be used to provide a Lurex or other metallic yarn with a strong backing, while at the same time creating a more subtle effect. Spiral or corkscrew yarn A spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied yarn that exhibits a characteristic smooth spiral of one yarn element around another and is similar in structure to a marl yarn. Figure 1 shows the basic structure, which is straightforward except for the different lengths of the two yarns used. Gimp yarn A gimp yarn is a composite yarn consisting of a twisted core wrapped around an impact yarn to create a wavy projection on the surface of the yarn. This structure is shown in Figure 1. Due to the requirement of the binder yarn to give stability to the structure, the yarn must be made in two stages. Two yarns of widely varying numbers are pleated together, thickened around, and then reverse bound. The reverse binding process eliminates the twist that creates wavy profiles because it makes the effect yarn longer than the actual length of the finished yarn. The texture properties of a gimp are obviously better than those of a spiral yarn. The finer of the two gimps shows that the effect is less regular and perhaps less defined. Diamond thread A diamond yarn is produced by folding a coarse single yarn or twisting it with a finer yarn or filament of opposite color using an S-twist. It is wired with a similar fine yarn using jade twist. Multiple 'cabled' yarns can be created by expanding and modifying this technique to create a wide range of effects. A real diamond yarn shows some shrinkage effect from thinner to thicker yarns, but this is not shown in Figure 1 for the sake of clarity. Diamond yarn is very useful for designers to create subtle effects of color and texture. Especially in relatively simple fabric structures. Boucle yarn This type of yarn is characterized by tight loops projecting from the yarn body at fairly regular intervals, as shown in Figure 1. Some of these yarns are made by air-jet texturing but most are of three-ply construction. The three components of the yarn are the core, the effect and the tie, or binder yarn. Effect yarn is wrapped in loops around a core or base yarn and then a third ply or binder is wrapped over the effect ply to hold the loops in place. Individual plies may be filaments or spun yarns. These material yarn properties determine the final design effect. Fig 1 : Different Type of Fancy Yarns Loop yarn A loop yarn has a core around which an impact yarn is wrapped and is overfed to form a nearly circular loopy projection on its surface. Figure 2 shows the structure of a loop yarn, in this case simplified somewhat by showing the core as two straight bars. In fact, the core is always two yarns twisted together, which traps the impact yarn. As a general rule, four threads are involved in construction. Two of these form the main or ground yarn. Effect yarn(s) are formed with an overfeed of about 200% or more. It is important for these to be of the right type and of good quality. Even, low-twist, elastic and flexible yarns are required. Impact yarn is not completely bound by the ground thread and therefore requires a binder. The size of the loops is determined by the level of overfeed, the location of the grooves in the drafting rollers, the spinning tension or the level of twist of the impact yarn. Loop yarn can also be made with slivers in place of yarn for effect. Snarl yarn Snarl yarn has a similar twisted core-to-loop structure. Again for simplicity, the core is shown as two parallel bars in Figure 2. A snarl yarn exhibits 'snarls' or 'twists' projecting from the core. It is produced by a method similar to loop yarn, but uses a vibrant, high-twist yarn as the impact yarn and a slightly higher excess feed. The required size and frequency of snarls can be obtained by careful control of additional feed and details of spinning tension and the level of twist of the impact yarn. Fig 2 : Loop yarn and Snarl yarn Nap/Knop yarn A knapsack yarn has distinct bundles of one or more component threads, arranged along its length at regular or irregular intervals (Figure 3). It is usually produced using a machine with two pairs of rollers, each of which can be operated independently. This allows the base threads to be dispensed intermittently, while the knapping threads that create the effect are dispensed continuously. The knapping thread joins the foundation thread below the knapping bar. Gather the knopping thread into a bunch or knop inserting the twist. The vertical movement of the knapping threads forms a bunch or knop. The vertical movement of the nopping bar determines whether the nap is short and compact or spread out along the length of the yarn. Slab yarn It is a yarn in which the slobs are deliberately made to create the desired effect of isolation. Slobs are thick areas of yarn that can change very slowly, with only a slight thickening at the thickest point of the yarn. Alternatively, a slab may be three or four times the thickness of the base yarn, and the thickness may increase in short lengths of yarn. The yarn images in Figure 3 should give a clear impression of yarn structure. Fascinating yarn It is a staple-fiber yarn consisting of a core of parallel fibers bound together by wrapper fibers. The yarn produced by air-jet spinning method is structured in this way. Yarns produced by the hollow spindle method are often described as warped, as the binder is applied to an essentially untwisted core of parallel fibers. The impressed yarn shown in Figure 3 is produced using the hollow spindle process. It is possible to see the fibers coming out of the dark binding thread contrasting with one of the two slivers used as feedstock in yarn production. Fig 3 : Knop, slub and fasciated yarns Tape yarn Tape yarn can be made using a variety of processes including braiding, warp knitting and weft knitting (Figure 4). In recent years, these materials have become more popular, especially in fashion knitwear. It is also possible to use narrow woven ribbons, narrow tapes of nonwoven material or slit films. Chainet yarn The chainet yarn shown in Figure 4 is produced in a small circular weft knitting process, often using a filament yarn and a ring of 6 to 20 needles. The process has been used on a small scale for many years and is now widely used in fashion knitwear. Chenille yarn True chenille yarn is produced from a woven leno fabric structure that is torn into narrow, warp-wise strips to serve as yarn. These are pile yarns, and the length of the pile may be uniform throughout the length of the yarn or may vary in length to produce a yarn of irregular dimensions. Chenille yarn is used in upholstery and clothing. Chenille yarn, as shown in Figure 4, has a soft, fuzzy pile that is bonded to a core. This yarn can be spun, but the equipment required is very specialized. For this reason, these yarns are usually woven on looms. The impact yarn is bound by a weft thread, which forms the warp. The weft thread is spaced twice the required length of the pile. Then the warp between each weft thread is cut in half. FIg 4 : Tape yarn, chainette yarn and chenille yarn Ribbon yarn These yarns are not produced by spinning and consist of finely woven tubes, pressed flat to resemble ribbon or tape. The ribbon is usually soft, shiny and silky. Composite yarn Also known as compound yarns, they contain at least two yarns. One composite yarn forms the core, and the other strand forms the sheath material. One thread is a staple fiber yarn and the other is a filament yarn. Composite yarns are even available in the same count range as diameter, plain and twisted and filament yarns. Covered yarn Covered yarns have a core that is completely covered with fibers or other yarns. Figure 5 shows different types of coated yarns. The core can be an elastomeric yarn, such as rubber or spandex, or other yarns, such as polyester or nylon. Coated yarns may have a single or double coating. The second coating is usually bent in the opposite direction to the first. A single yarn is wrapped around single covered yarns They are lighter, more resilient and more economical than double-coated yarns and can be used for satin, batiste, broadcloth and suiting as well as lightweight foundation garments. Most common elastic yarns are double coated to provide balance and better coverage. Fabrics made from this yarn are heavy. Metallic yarn They have been used for thousands of years. Metallic yarns can be made of monofilament fibers or ply yarns. Two processes are commonly used to make metallic yarns. The laminating process seals a layer of aluminum between two layers of acetate or polyester film, which is then cut into strips for yarn, as shown in Figure 5. The film can be transparent, so the aluminum foil shows, or the film and/or the adhesive may be coloured before the laminating process. The metallising process vaporises the aluminium at high pressure and deposits it on the polyester film. Fig 5 : Covered yarn and metallic yarn
Fig 3 : Knop, slub and fasciated yarns


Tape yarn

Tape yarn can be made using a variety of processes including braiding, warp knitting and weft knitting (Figure 4). In recent years, these materials have become more popular, especially in fashion knitwear. It is also possible to use narrow woven ribbons, narrow tapes of nonwoven material or slit films.

Chainet yarn

The chainet yarn shown in Figure 4 is produced in a small circular weft knitting process, often using a filament yarn and a ring of 6 to 20 needles. The process has been used on a small scale for many years and is now widely used in fashion knitwear.

Chenille yarn

True chenille yarn is produced from a woven leno fabric structure that is torn into narrow, warp-wise strips to serve as yarn. These are pile yarns, and the length of the pile may be uniform throughout the length of the yarn or may vary in length to produce a yarn of irregular dimensions. Chenille yarn is used in upholstery and clothing. Chenille yarn, as shown in Figure 4, has a soft, fuzzy pile that is bonded to a core. This yarn can be spun, but the equipment required is very specialized. For this reason, these yarns are usually woven on looms. The impact yarn is bound by a weft thread, which forms the warp. The weft thread is spaced twice the required length of the pile. Then the warp between each weft thread is cut in half.
Fancy Yarns : Marl yarn The simplest of fancy yarns are marl yarns and yarns made by twisting two different colored yarns together in a double process. It has a different structure from normal double yarn. The yarn structure shown in Figure 1 clearly shows the color variation of the two yarns, showing the dominant effect of the marl yarn, as well as the flat structure of the simple folded yarn. These yarns are used to create discreet pinstripes in men's suiting or to create a finely and irregularly patterned woven fabric with relatively simple fabric construction. They can also be used to provide a Lurex or other metallic yarn with a strong backing, while at the same time creating a more subtle effect. Spiral or corkscrew yarn A spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied yarn that exhibits a characteristic smooth spiral of one yarn element around another and is similar in structure to a marl yarn. Figure 1 shows the basic structure, which is straightforward except for the different lengths of the two yarns used. Gimp yarn A gimp yarn is a composite yarn consisting of a twisted core wrapped around an impact yarn to create a wavy projection on the surface of the yarn. This structure is shown in Figure 1. Due to the requirement of the binder yarn to give stability to the structure, the yarn must be made in two stages. Two yarns of widely varying numbers are pleated together, thickened around, and then reverse bound. The reverse binding process eliminates the twist that creates wavy profiles because it makes the effect yarn longer than the actual length of the finished yarn. The texture properties of a gimp are obviously better than those of a spiral yarn. The finer of the two gimps shows that the effect is less regular and perhaps less defined. Diamond thread A diamond yarn is produced by folding a coarse single yarn or twisting it with a finer yarn or filament of opposite color using an S-twist. It is wired with a similar fine yarn using jade twist. Multiple 'cabled' yarns can be created by expanding and modifying this technique to create a wide range of effects. A real diamond yarn shows some shrinkage effect from thinner to thicker yarns, but this is not shown in Figure 1 for the sake of clarity. Diamond yarn is very useful for designers to create subtle effects of color and texture. Especially in relatively simple fabric structures. Boucle yarn This type of yarn is characterized by tight loops projecting from the yarn body at fairly regular intervals, as shown in Figure 1. Some of these yarns are made by air-jet texturing but most are of three-ply construction. The three components of the yarn are the core, the effect and the tie, or binder yarn. Effect yarn is wrapped in loops around a core or base yarn and then a third ply or binder is wrapped over the effect ply to hold the loops in place. Individual plies may be filaments or spun yarns. These material yarn properties determine the final design effect. Fig 1 : Different Type of Fancy Yarns Loop yarn A loop yarn has a core around which an impact yarn is wrapped and is overfed to form a nearly circular loopy projection on its surface. Figure 2 shows the structure of a loop yarn, in this case simplified somewhat by showing the core as two straight bars. In fact, the core is always two yarns twisted together, which traps the impact yarn. As a general rule, four threads are involved in construction. Two of these form the main or ground yarn. Effect yarn(s) are formed with an overfeed of about 200% or more. It is important for these to be of the right type and of good quality. Even, low-twist, elastic and flexible yarns are required. Impact yarn is not completely bound by the ground thread and therefore requires a binder. The size of the loops is determined by the level of overfeed, the location of the grooves in the drafting rollers, the spinning tension or the level of twist of the impact yarn. Loop yarn can also be made with slivers in place of yarn for effect. Snarl yarn Snarl yarn has a similar twisted core-to-loop structure. Again for simplicity, the core is shown as two parallel bars in Figure 2. A snarl yarn exhibits 'snarls' or 'twists' projecting from the core. It is produced by a method similar to loop yarn, but uses a vibrant, high-twist yarn as the impact yarn and a slightly higher excess feed. The required size and frequency of snarls can be obtained by careful control of additional feed and details of spinning tension and the level of twist of the impact yarn. Fig 2 : Loop yarn and Snarl yarn Nap/Knop yarn A knapsack yarn has distinct bundles of one or more component threads, arranged along its length at regular or irregular intervals (Figure 3). It is usually produced using a machine with two pairs of rollers, each of which can be operated independently. This allows the base threads to be dispensed intermittently, while the knapping threads that create the effect are dispensed continuously. The knapping thread joins the foundation thread below the knapping bar. Gather the knopping thread into a bunch or knop inserting the twist. The vertical movement of the knapping threads forms a bunch or knop. The vertical movement of the nopping bar determines whether the nap is short and compact or spread out along the length of the yarn. Slab yarn It is a yarn in which the slobs are deliberately made to create the desired effect of isolation. Slobs are thick areas of yarn that can change very slowly, with only a slight thickening at the thickest point of the yarn. Alternatively, a slab may be three or four times the thickness of the base yarn, and the thickness may increase in short lengths of yarn. The yarn images in Figure 3 should give a clear impression of yarn structure. Fascinating yarn It is a staple-fiber yarn consisting of a core of parallel fibers bound together by wrapper fibers. The yarn produced by air-jet spinning method is structured in this way. Yarns produced by the hollow spindle method are often described as warped, as the binder is applied to an essentially untwisted core of parallel fibers. The impressed yarn shown in Figure 3 is produced using the hollow spindle process. It is possible to see the fibers coming out of the dark binding thread contrasting with one of the two slivers used as feedstock in yarn production. Fig 3 : Knop, slub and fasciated yarns Tape yarn Tape yarn can be made using a variety of processes including braiding, warp knitting and weft knitting (Figure 4). In recent years, these materials have become more popular, especially in fashion knitwear. It is also possible to use narrow woven ribbons, narrow tapes of nonwoven material or slit films. Chainet yarn The chainet yarn shown in Figure 4 is produced in a small circular weft knitting process, often using a filament yarn and a ring of 6 to 20 needles. The process has been used on a small scale for many years and is now widely used in fashion knitwear. Chenille yarn True chenille yarn is produced from a woven leno fabric structure that is torn into narrow, warp-wise strips to serve as yarn. These are pile yarns, and the length of the pile may be uniform throughout the length of the yarn or may vary in length to produce a yarn of irregular dimensions. Chenille yarn is used in upholstery and clothing. Chenille yarn, as shown in Figure 4, has a soft, fuzzy pile that is bonded to a core. This yarn can be spun, but the equipment required is very specialized. For this reason, these yarns are usually woven on looms. The impact yarn is bound by a weft thread, which forms the warp. The weft thread is spaced twice the required length of the pile. Then the warp between each weft thread is cut in half. FIg 4 : Tape yarn, chainette yarn and chenille yarn Ribbon yarn These yarns are not produced by spinning and consist of finely woven tubes, pressed flat to resemble ribbon or tape. The ribbon is usually soft, shiny and silky. Composite yarn Also known as compound yarns, they contain at least two yarns. One composite yarn forms the core, and the other strand forms the sheath material. One thread is a staple fiber yarn and the other is a filament yarn. Composite yarns are even available in the same count range as diameter, plain and twisted and filament yarns. Covered yarn Covered yarns have a core that is completely covered with fibers or other yarns. Figure 5 shows different types of coated yarns. The core can be an elastomeric yarn, such as rubber or spandex, or other yarns, such as polyester or nylon. Coated yarns may have a single or double coating. The second coating is usually bent in the opposite direction to the first. A single yarn is wrapped around single covered yarns They are lighter, more resilient and more economical than double-coated yarns and can be used for satin, batiste, broadcloth and suiting as well as lightweight foundation garments. Most common elastic yarns are double coated to provide balance and better coverage. Fabrics made from this yarn are heavy. Metallic yarn They have been used for thousands of years. Metallic yarns can be made of monofilament fibers or ply yarns. Two processes are commonly used to make metallic yarns. The laminating process seals a layer of aluminum between two layers of acetate or polyester film, which is then cut into strips for yarn, as shown in Figure 5. The film can be transparent, so the aluminum foil shows, or the film and/or the adhesive may be coloured before the laminating process. The metallising process vaporises the aluminium at high pressure and deposits it on the polyester film. Fig 5 : Covered yarn and metallic yarn
FIg 4 : Tape yarn, chainette yarn and chenille yarn


Ribbon yarn

These yarns are not produced by spinning and consist of finely woven tubes, pressed flat to resemble ribbon or tape. The ribbon is usually soft, shiny and silky.

Composite yarn

Also known as compound yarns, they contain at least two yarns. One composite yarn forms the core, and the other strand forms the sheath material. One thread is a staple fiber yarn and the other is a filament yarn. Composite yarns are even available in the same count range as diameter, plain and twisted and filament yarns.

Covered yarn

Covered yarns have a core that is completely covered with fibers or other yarns. Figure 5 shows different types of coated yarns. The core can be an elastomeric yarn, such as rubber or spandex, or other yarns, such as polyester or nylon. Coated yarns may have a single or double coating. The second coating is usually bent in the opposite direction to the first. A single yarn is wrapped around single covered yarns They are lighter, more resilient and more economical than double-coated yarns and can be used for satin, batiste, broadcloth and suiting as well as lightweight foundation garments. Most common elastic yarns are double coated to provide balance and better coverage. Fabrics made from this yarn are heavy.

Metallic yarn

They have been used for thousands of years. Metallic yarns can be made of monofilament fibers or ply yarns. Two processes are commonly used to make metallic yarns. The laminating process seals a layer of aluminum between two layers of acetate or polyester film, which is then cut into strips for yarn, as shown in Figure 5. The film can be transparent, so the aluminum foil shows, or the film and/or the adhesive may be coloured before the laminating process. The metallising process vaporises the aluminium at high pressure and deposits it on the polyester film.
Fancy Yarns : Marl yarn The simplest of fancy yarns are marl yarns and yarns made by twisting two different colored yarns together in a double process. It has a different structure from normal double yarn. The yarn structure shown in Figure 1 clearly shows the color variation of the two yarns, showing the dominant effect of the marl yarn, as well as the flat structure of the simple folded yarn. These yarns are used to create discreet pinstripes in men's suiting or to create a finely and irregularly patterned woven fabric with relatively simple fabric construction. They can also be used to provide a Lurex or other metallic yarn with a strong backing, while at the same time creating a more subtle effect. Spiral or corkscrew yarn A spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied yarn that exhibits a characteristic smooth spiral of one yarn element around another and is similar in structure to a marl yarn. Figure 1 shows the basic structure, which is straightforward except for the different lengths of the two yarns used. Gimp yarn A gimp yarn is a composite yarn consisting of a twisted core wrapped around an impact yarn to create a wavy projection on the surface of the yarn. This structure is shown in Figure 1. Due to the requirement of the binder yarn to give stability to the structure, the yarn must be made in two stages. Two yarns of widely varying numbers are pleated together, thickened around, and then reverse bound. The reverse binding process eliminates the twist that creates wavy profiles because it makes the effect yarn longer than the actual length of the finished yarn. The texture properties of a gimp are obviously better than those of a spiral yarn. The finer of the two gimps shows that the effect is less regular and perhaps less defined. Diamond thread A diamond yarn is produced by folding a coarse single yarn or twisting it with a finer yarn or filament of opposite color using an S-twist. It is wired with a similar fine yarn using jade twist. Multiple 'cabled' yarns can be created by expanding and modifying this technique to create a wide range of effects. A real diamond yarn shows some shrinkage effect from thinner to thicker yarns, but this is not shown in Figure 1 for the sake of clarity. Diamond yarn is very useful for designers to create subtle effects of color and texture. Especially in relatively simple fabric structures. Boucle yarn This type of yarn is characterized by tight loops projecting from the yarn body at fairly regular intervals, as shown in Figure 1. Some of these yarns are made by air-jet texturing but most are of three-ply construction. The three components of the yarn are the core, the effect and the tie, or binder yarn. Effect yarn is wrapped in loops around a core or base yarn and then a third ply or binder is wrapped over the effect ply to hold the loops in place. Individual plies may be filaments or spun yarns. These material yarn properties determine the final design effect. Fig 1 : Different Type of Fancy Yarns Loop yarn A loop yarn has a core around which an impact yarn is wrapped and is overfed to form a nearly circular loopy projection on its surface. Figure 2 shows the structure of a loop yarn, in this case simplified somewhat by showing the core as two straight bars. In fact, the core is always two yarns twisted together, which traps the impact yarn. As a general rule, four threads are involved in construction. Two of these form the main or ground yarn. Effect yarn(s) are formed with an overfeed of about 200% or more. It is important for these to be of the right type and of good quality. Even, low-twist, elastic and flexible yarns are required. Impact yarn is not completely bound by the ground thread and therefore requires a binder. The size of the loops is determined by the level of overfeed, the location of the grooves in the drafting rollers, the spinning tension or the level of twist of the impact yarn. Loop yarn can also be made with slivers in place of yarn for effect. Snarl yarn Snarl yarn has a similar twisted core-to-loop structure. Again for simplicity, the core is shown as two parallel bars in Figure 2. A snarl yarn exhibits 'snarls' or 'twists' projecting from the core. It is produced by a method similar to loop yarn, but uses a vibrant, high-twist yarn as the impact yarn and a slightly higher excess feed. The required size and frequency of snarls can be obtained by careful control of additional feed and details of spinning tension and the level of twist of the impact yarn. Fig 2 : Loop yarn and Snarl yarn Nap/Knop yarn A knapsack yarn has distinct bundles of one or more component threads, arranged along its length at regular or irregular intervals (Figure 3). It is usually produced using a machine with two pairs of rollers, each of which can be operated independently. This allows the base threads to be dispensed intermittently, while the knapping threads that create the effect are dispensed continuously. The knapping thread joins the foundation thread below the knapping bar. Gather the knopping thread into a bunch or knop inserting the twist. The vertical movement of the knapping threads forms a bunch or knop. The vertical movement of the nopping bar determines whether the nap is short and compact or spread out along the length of the yarn. Slab yarn It is a yarn in which the slobs are deliberately made to create the desired effect of isolation. Slobs are thick areas of yarn that can change very slowly, with only a slight thickening at the thickest point of the yarn. Alternatively, a slab may be three or four times the thickness of the base yarn, and the thickness may increase in short lengths of yarn. The yarn images in Figure 3 should give a clear impression of yarn structure. Fascinating yarn It is a staple-fiber yarn consisting of a core of parallel fibers bound together by wrapper fibers. The yarn produced by air-jet spinning method is structured in this way. Yarns produced by the hollow spindle method are often described as warped, as the binder is applied to an essentially untwisted core of parallel fibers. The impressed yarn shown in Figure 3 is produced using the hollow spindle process. It is possible to see the fibers coming out of the dark binding thread contrasting with one of the two slivers used as feedstock in yarn production. Fig 3 : Knop, slub and fasciated yarns Tape yarn Tape yarn can be made using a variety of processes including braiding, warp knitting and weft knitting (Figure 4). In recent years, these materials have become more popular, especially in fashion knitwear. It is also possible to use narrow woven ribbons, narrow tapes of nonwoven material or slit films. Chainet yarn The chainet yarn shown in Figure 4 is produced in a small circular weft knitting process, often using a filament yarn and a ring of 6 to 20 needles. The process has been used on a small scale for many years and is now widely used in fashion knitwear. Chenille yarn True chenille yarn is produced from a woven leno fabric structure that is torn into narrow, warp-wise strips to serve as yarn. These are pile yarns, and the length of the pile may be uniform throughout the length of the yarn or may vary in length to produce a yarn of irregular dimensions. Chenille yarn is used in upholstery and clothing. Chenille yarn, as shown in Figure 4, has a soft, fuzzy pile that is bonded to a core. This yarn can be spun, but the equipment required is very specialized. For this reason, these yarns are usually woven on looms. The impact yarn is bound by a weft thread, which forms the warp. The weft thread is spaced twice the required length of the pile. Then the warp between each weft thread is cut in half. FIg 4 : Tape yarn, chainette yarn and chenille yarn Ribbon yarn These yarns are not produced by spinning and consist of finely woven tubes, pressed flat to resemble ribbon or tape. The ribbon is usually soft, shiny and silky. Composite yarn Also known as compound yarns, they contain at least two yarns. One composite yarn forms the core, and the other strand forms the sheath material. One thread is a staple fiber yarn and the other is a filament yarn. Composite yarns are even available in the same count range as diameter, plain and twisted and filament yarns. Covered yarn Covered yarns have a core that is completely covered with fibers or other yarns. Figure 5 shows different types of coated yarns. The core can be an elastomeric yarn, such as rubber or spandex, or other yarns, such as polyester or nylon. Coated yarns may have a single or double coating. The second coating is usually bent in the opposite direction to the first. A single yarn is wrapped around single covered yarns They are lighter, more resilient and more economical than double-coated yarns and can be used for satin, batiste, broadcloth and suiting as well as lightweight foundation garments. Most common elastic yarns are double coated to provide balance and better coverage. Fabrics made from this yarn are heavy. Metallic yarn They have been used for thousands of years. Metallic yarns can be made of monofilament fibers or ply yarns. Two processes are commonly used to make metallic yarns. The laminating process seals a layer of aluminum between two layers of acetate or polyester film, which is then cut into strips for yarn, as shown in Figure 5. The film can be transparent, so the aluminum foil shows, or the film and/or the adhesive may be coloured before the laminating process. The metallising process vaporises the aluminium at high pressure and deposits it on the polyester film. Fig 5 : Covered yarn and metallic yarn
Fig 5 : Covered yarn and metallic yarn



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